Here is it. A recap of sorts. But really, there are no words that is apt, to describe the experience and feeling, every step on dirt, mud, gravel, rocks on the path to Santiago. The energy and the intangible pull that drives pilgrims to walk the path of St James is enigmatic. It’s there, and you just do it. The journey is a physical challenge, a spiritual exploration and a cultural immersion.
The Camino has been in my head for years. From the first time I watched the film with Martin Sheen to that Christmas I gave my brother the book about the Camino many many moons ago.
During Covid lockdown when all of the world were stuck within our 5-10 km radius and were all itching to travel, I took the Conqueror Challenge to walk the Camino de Santiago. Hubby was the one who first went onto it, and I followed. Something new to add to my daily target steps - an extra app I had to download which showed a map of the Camino Frances, with actual views of each stop, sends you postcards in email when you reach a milestone. I just went on my daily 8k steps walk and didn’t think much about it. It took me almost a year to finish it.
Then early 2023 when I suddenly had the nagging ache to Google Camino trips. I watched a friends IG stories in awe when she walked the 700+ km April that year. I started chatting to a few friends and family who did it in the past, requested quotes from travel companies, watched documentaries on YouTube. And so, my social media feed became a frenzy of Camino things, from hiking shoes, poles, to different travel groups to the various Camino routes, etc etc. Which led to the serendipitous find - an ad for a Camino group in my Facebook feed by the Catholic Mission Australia. It read: El Camino Pilgrimage 2024, 19 days, 4-23 June. I filled out the form to inquire. That was early November 2023.
I have never travelled to a new place, alone. Solo. The thought of travelling by myself was daunting. I asked a friend who’s interested. But she thought we need to prepare for a year at least. Hubby was the least interested too, because walking to him is as boring as watching paint dry. He prefers running. I thought - this opportunity is here so might as well. So. I signed the EOI form, paid and prepared myself.
First up, preparation.
Physical training is important and I believe it can make or break your Camino experience
I prepared more than six months before the trip. I was already walking 8k steps (about 5km) each day, so I gradually increased that to 10k steps (8km) till I was comfortable to do daily 10km walks. Some people ask - how/where do you find the time?
We all know that, when we want to, we WILL make the time. At first I walked 30 minutes during lunch and then the rest after hours. At some point, I was walking till 1130pm because the weather was too hot during the day. By January, I was walking 10 km daily, and one 20+ km on weekends. Rain or shine. From flat to hills, pavement and dirt. I trained in two types of shoes and socks that I used during my Camino. At least five times during the month leading up to the pilgrimage, I trained with a light day pack. And practiced with a semi-full backpack in the Berowra Waters bushland (part of the Great Northern Walk). It was tough in the beginning as my feet and legs and knees are not used to the long walks, but eventually it got the the message. It’s important to have some form of training to build up endurance and resistance.
Foot care is most important. Long walks with extra backpack weight can cause many foot injuries.
I trained in my Merrell and Salomon hiking shoes - both are light, but only brought the Salomon with me. Tight, light and sturdy. I like this because it hugs my feet snugly. I find that if there’s room to move, means more friction for the feet/toes and therefore more likelihood of blisters. Until now, post Camino I still wear them when I walk around our local bushland.
Toe socks are the best. I had regular socks, but ended up using my Ininji toe wool socks for majority of the time.
I massage my feet with castor oil daily, even when at home. So I continued to do this. I don’t know if the massage and oils helped avoid blisters, but I never got any during my travel. A fellow pilgrim swears by Vaseline petroleum jelly.
Pack light. Only 10% of your body weight.
Prior to the trip, we were given a list of things to pack with the reminder to pack light: only 10% of your body weight is ideal. So I meticulously weighed every single item that I put in my backpack. When it became too heavy, I decided to cull. I didn’t need the extra shoes so I just packed and used my Salomons.
What’s in my backpack? (based on the list provided to us by the Catholic Mission Australia)
Brierly Guidebook - A MUST!
Light sleeping bag
Sleeping liner
Rain coat
Toiletries: soap (Velvet can be used for face and body, washing clothes), toothpaste, toothbrush, cotton tips, shampoo, toner, moisturiser, cotton pads, sunscreen, lotion, castor oil, laundry sheets, muscle patches,
Tea towel sized microfibre towel
Clothing: 2 set light shirt, 1 light jacket, 2 set hiking pants convertible to shorts, 2 sets toe socks, 1 set regular socks, 3 sets underwear. 1 shirt / 1 pajama pants
Shoes: Salomon Speed Cross 6 and Merrell sandals
Water bottle
Sunnies
Hat
Buff (used as scarf or beanie when cold)
Ear plugs
Eye mask
Clothes pin (for washing clothes) - I used this once and eventually threw it.
Laundry sheets (I used this once)
Walking poles
Backpack. Mine was an Osprey brand, 37L
Prior to the trip, hubby and I watched many Camino documentaries and experiences in streaming platforms and YouTube. And in one particular video (Walking the Camino Six Ways, this message stuck with me (I forgot the actual words, but this was the gist). You only need to carry the basics when you walk The Camino. Everything you add in it that’s unnecessary, are your fears. You’re scared you’ll have a stomach bug, so you pack some meds for that. Or you might catch a cold or walk with blisters, so you pack stuff that “might” help you ease those pains. But these are not real. These are fears which will make your journey heavy. Leave them behind. Leave your fears behind. Carry only what you need and The Camino will provide.
That was my mantra. Somehow. I did pack only the basics, based on the list. But guess what, I also added a few things. I packed some muscle patches which I use all the time when my shoulders or back ache. I packed a headlight (thanks to hubby). An inflatable pillow. Guess what? I didn’t use any of it. There were no muscle aches. Pillows were provided in the albergues. The mobile was enough to use during the early morning starts. So yes the message is: leave your fears behind.
The Camino is a very personal journey. Whether you’re joining a group or going solo, it is an experience that you own. I’ve met incredible pilgrims who have done their 8th, 12th and nth Camino and each time, their experience is different. The Camino is for everyone, whether you’re Catholic or not. I’m sharing my experience here because I hope it will inspire someone. It’s my first Camino. And if you ask me if I’ll do it again, the answer is YES!
In Part 2/3, I will share the rhythm of the daily walks, the towns and cities where we stayed. Lots of photos of the trails. This is possibly going to be a looong post.
Part 4 will be some of minor details that aren’t in any guidebook. For instance, I didn’t know you can port your backpack. That was a game changer. Or that most albergues have a washing machine and dryer! And guess what, there’s a curfew!
Maybe also a Part 5 as a photo journal of all the faces I met in the Camino. Humans and animals. They’re all incredible!
This part series is my eat-pray-love experience. Not as grand as Elizabeth Gilbert’s. But I did eat a lot (see previous post), I prayed a lot (so many churches in Spain) and guess what - I did fall in love with the people and culture, and the food!
And if you’re interested in planning your Camino journey or you’ve done it yourself, ask me questions or leave a comment! I’d love to connect with fellow pilgrims!
What a journey! Congratulations for making it. I bet it’s one of the best life experiences.
Wow. What an adventure! 😲 Great stuff.