Fork that eggplant...
Sardines for Ash Wednesday and a vegetarian challenge for Lent
Yes, you’ll need to poke the eggplant with a fork to make the recipe for this Tortang Talong!
Tortang talong has been flying the global culinary radar for a few years now, in the social media sphere and the world wild web and recently getting more attention when Yotam Ottolenghi and co-author Helen Goh included a recipe in their latest cookbook Comfort. Helen first posted in her Instagram this beloved classic in 2020 – where she said “…trying my best to channel the Philippines for brunch this morning. A whole smoked aubergine with tender minced pork!) underneath that omelette skirt…”
Keeping it real with my WFH lunch today – tinned Spanish style sardines from the motherland. It’s my favourite style of sardines. Cooked in olive oil with spices. Eaten with rice, and some steamed greens.
It’s Ash Wednesday today. An important date in the Filipino Catholic’s calendar as this marks the beginning of the 40-day Lenten sacrifice. A ritual we practice at home since the girls were still young. I remember a time when one of them reminded me not to pack chips in their lunchbox, “I’m sacrificing chips for Lent, mum!” When they were primary to high school age, we would discuss what our Lenten sacrifice is over a meal. There were the tangible chocolates, lollies, chips, at one point hubby even gave up drinking soft drinks for 40 days. A feat for him, although these days he’s more into keffir and green juice. There was a year I completely gave up on meat for the duration of lent, and was craving lechon by the time Easter arrived.
With the girls now young adults, we try to still keep to the rituals of Lent without the need to be pushy. The hardest challenge of being a parent is to give up control. We create traditions and rituals replicating the childhood we know and hope that it effortlessly flows on to the next generation. But we also need to accept that they are now their own person and have their own choices to make. I often times miss those days when rules at home were etched in stone (not literally of course!), and the little people listen and obey. The reality is they grow up and we grow old. So we learn to negotiate, have the conversation and learn to respect opinion. And we also learn to, as Mel Robbins theorised – let them! Let them grow in their own skin and create their own paths, and just hope and pray behind the scenes. Parenting 101, page 898.
So what to give up for Lent? I am inclined to take a pause on all socials except Substack – my quiet little community here is encouraging and I love reading and learning from the stories of those I follow.
Now I’m also inclined to give up meat (I’ll stick to fish though) to challenge myself to create and share Filipino dishes that are classics. Because truth be told, Filipino cuisine isn’t all about the lechon, the lumpia and the pork adobo! How about 40 days of Filipino vegetarian dishes?!!!
Ok! Challenge accepted!
First up!
Tortang Talong! Basically, eggplant omelette. But way way more special. Because grilling/cooking the eggplant with fire creates that smokey taste, wrapped with that silky egg and cooked till just slightly brown! You’ll want to make at least three in one cooking because these are delicious *chef’s kiss*… why would Yotam Ottolenghi include it in his cookbook if it isn’t, right?
Ingredients
3 long eggplants or 2 large round aubergines
3 eggs, beaten
30 ml mild light olive oil (or any neutral oils)
Method
Thoroughly wash the eggplants under cold running water, pat dry with a paper towel.
Fork the eggplant! I mean poke holes around all sides using a fork! This creates steam through the eggplant and will cook it more evenly.
Using a BBQ grill, cook the eggplants with the skin on. Turn on each side to ensure its cooked through. It’s cooked when it has turned soft when pressed with kitchen tongs.
Once cooked, place the eggplant on a tray and let it cool, then peel the skins.
When you’re peeling, there will be liquid coming from the eggplants. Ensure you tip this - dispose of it. You don’t want that extra liquid in the omelette.
In a mixing bowl, add the beaten eggs and the eggplant gently pressing (to flatten) them with a fork. Let it soak for about 5 minutes.
Heat a large pan on high heat, add the oil and turn down to medium - low. Add one eggplant and gently cook, pushing the eggs towards the centre as you cook to keep the shape. Turn over and cook until slightly brown. Repeat with the other eggplants.
Place the Tortang Talong on a plate, season with two pinches of sea salt and some freshly cracked pepper. Garnish with some coriander sprigs. Serve with banana ketchup on the side.
Best eaten with steamed rice.
Notes:
If you have a gas stove, you can also use that to cook the eggplants, instead of firing up the grill. Whatever saves you time.
The round eggplants usually called aubergines and mostly in Mediterranean moussaka can be used here.
When using the long thin eggplants, I would use one (1) egg for each eggplant. For the large round ones, I would use two (2). Again, this will also depend on the size of the eggs - I use the 65 grams free range eggs.
Traditionally, tortang talong has minced pork. But I’ve been cooking this without meat for years, and it became Sofia’s favourite when she turned vegetarian many moons ago.
In other news, the high prices of eggs these days due to the shortage may put you off making this dish! I say use whatever egg is available to you. No need to buy the organic free range if it costs an arm and a leg.
Side note. While I’m eating this sardines in a bowl I’m reminded of Peter Francisco who I met at The Other Art Fair in Sydney last year, an Adelaide based Filipino-Ausralian artist who painted the humble can of Ligo sardines titled 100 Cans of Resilience. I love when art and culture intersect! Check him out!
And if you’re keen for a cook and a chat, join me in my kitchen via Class Bento!
So beautifully written and I can vouch for your tort personally! Will try and make this again this weekend as my previous attempt was nowhere near delicious as yours Tita! Practice makes perfect di ba?
Thanks for the reminder! This was one of my favorite omelets.
We also cooked sardines either sliced sayote, which is plentiful in Baguio.