Adobong Pusit
Is it the national dish of the Philippines?
There is a lot to be said about the Philippines culinary history, influenced by colonisers but there remains predominantly, the indigenous identity which makes it unique. It is what makes it Filipino.
Adobo has many varieties. As many as the islands that comprise the country. As many versions as there are families and homes. So what makes the Filipino adobo different from the Spanish or the Mexican dishes? It is the endemic vinegars that are produced from the different landscapes and regions. The more popular vinegars:
Sukang Iloko (Ilokano vinegar) is made from fermented basi, a traditional Ilocan wine made from sugarcane juice. It is dark and earthy and has a complex fruity flavour and is used in producing the unique longganisa in the area;
Sukang Puti (cane vinegar) is the most widely used for adobo and paksiw dishes, made from fermented sugar cane juice it has a mild, sour flavour and has hints of sweetness
Sukang Tuba (coconut vinegar) is from fermented coconut sap, slightly sweet and nutty and most often used in kinilaw (ceviche) dishes
In other regions of the Philippines, there are also some which are produced specific to the produce and agricultural products in the area, such as sukang mangga (mango), sukang saging (banana) and sukang piña (pineapple).
Use any of these vinegars for your adobo - same ingredients, different vinegars and it will yield different interesting but equally delicious versions.
Food writer and cookbook designer Ige Ramos created a chart “deconstructing the adobo” in his cookbook Republic of Taste, The Untold Stories of Cavite Cuisine, showing the six distinctive elements : aromatics, salty and savoury/medium, acid, protein/vegetable, fat, state. Combine any 3-4 of these elements and you have a unique version of your adobo. Although it seems easy, perfecting your own version is always challenge, hit and miss, trial and error. But once you perfect it, it’s worth sharing with everyone.
In many different ways, adobo is probably the most cooked and eaten dish in the Filipino migrant’s story. And since this is Adobo, Down Under, I am happy to share my own learned tips and tricks in helping you make, the perfect adobo.
Here are the basics:
Use cane vinegar. Never ever use regular supermarket variety white vinegar. If you’re unable to source cane vinegar, your options are: white wine vinegar, distilled white vinegar, or clear (not the cloudy one) apple cider vinegar;
Lots and lots of garlic. In any Filipino kitchen, when a recipe calls for 2-3 cloves, we use a whole head. Garlic is the main aromatic for a good adobo so the more better. It wards off vampires too :)
Whole black peppercorns, not crushed
Fresh bay leaves are a revelation. Use them when you can, but dry bay leaves are commonly use. Fresh bay leaves emits the most delicious aroma
Use pork belly with fats, chicken with skin on and bones. The fats and the bones add depth, and collagen
Pan sear, braise, simmer on low. Adobo is best cooked low and slow as the intense flavours develop more. Which is why adobo is always even better the next day.
If using seafood, e.g. squid, ask your fishmonger to clean the guts, then personally cut into pieces at home. Squid cooks fast, so when making squid adobo, cook the aromats first, add the liquids then add the squid last. Simmer this max of 10-15 minutes, and TAKE IT OFF THE HEAT after that time. If you think you overcooked the squid, then leave it on the stove and simmer on low for 40 minutes. Squid becomes tough when its overcooked, but it becomes tender again if you cook it long and slow.
Adobong Pusit (Squid)
1kg squid, cleaned and cut into 1-2cm
6-8 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium sized onion, sliced
2 medium sized tomatoes, sliced
5 pieces dry bay leaves (use fresh if available)
125 ml (1/4 cup) cane vinegar (alternatives: white wine vinegar, distilled white vinegar, clear apple cider vinegar)
125 ml (1/4 cup) light soy sauce or use tamari to make it gluten free)
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
2 tablespoons cooking oil
Using a shallow round pan, add the cooking oil and allow to warm on medium heat
Add the garlic, onions and tomatoes and cook until soft
Add the cut up squid and stir to distribute evenly in the pan
Add the soy sauce, then the vinegar and let it steam to release the acids
Add the bay leaves, peppercorns and continue to cook for 5-10 minutes until the squid changed colour, should be white. Take off the heat.
(See tips if you go beyond the 5-10 minute mark)
Serve with steamed rice.
So is Adobo the national dish of the Philippines? It’s definitely the most default dish in every Filipino home and represents indigenous vinegars unique to the Philippines coastal and agriculture landscape, so I would YES!